A new route has been open, the traverse of Marosa-Avgo by the ridge

Often heard in the mountain taking about traversing the peaks of Marosa to Avgo from many groups / clubs, although they use to do a part of the ridge by skipping parts of the ridge. In fact the peaks and points that must to traverse in order to complete the route are: Loupata highest peak 2066m - trigonometric Loupata 2063m  - nose in Fourka 2008m - Marosa 1967m - trigonometric Ornio 2022m - Ornio highest peak 2044m – Kedros 1925m and Avgo (Egg) 2146m. The two major problems in the ridge (difficult passages) are first of Loupata to Marosa (instead Fourka) and secondly from the Ornio to Avgo.
Making the first belay in Fourka
Making the first belay in Fourka
The first point in Fourka is difficult to pass one should be familiar with climbing since the ridge is steep for about 60 meters. Most groups to avoid these 60 meters abruptly made ​​a circle three hours hiking descending from 2000 meters to 1500 meters and back again at 1920 meters. But some experienced climbers managed to go from one vertex to another in minutes climbing down the steep point of the ridge in Fourka.
The second pass of the Ornio to the Avgo had never done before since there was difficulty to go up one on the highest peak of Ornio and behind the peak there is a chaotic space totaling over 200 meters. So the few who attempt the crossing pass from the peak with the trigonometric Ornio (not the highest) carefully descend the steep grassy slopes to the corral of Avgo about 400 meters lower bypassing the highest peak of Ornio and traversing to Avgo.
After studying the area in recent years, on 8 June 2014, the team of Nikolas Kroupis, Giorgos Margaritis, Thanasis Economou and Leonidas Niavis placed at the Fourkas (from Loupata to Marosa) a belay with two ancors with chain that safely can rapel the steep ridge and move towards the slopes of Marosa. The rapelling is 60 meters and can be done with abseiling and recall the ropes (two 60 meters ropes). The belay is placed right on the nose of Fourkas so they can easily find from the climbers even in winter.
The belay in Fourka
The belay in Fourka

The second passage in Ornio is quite difficult and is targeted to experienced climbers. The highest peak of Ornio one can get from the classic route grassy ramp to the right or from the edge which suggest following the ridge from the top of the column (trigonometric). The highest peak of Ornio is the most rugged and much more impressive. On the back side of the peak and descending 5 meters elevation towards to Avgo in negative rock has been placed a belay with double anchors and chain where a vertical rapel goes down to the knife ridge. The abseil is just 30 meters (attention, a 60m rope reaches marginally). After the rapel we are at the top of the beak of the Ornio (Vulture) as seen from lower and will have to move to the bottom of this. The passage is on the ridge with climbing a rock too loosing and requires great care in securing the top point and to the lower point of the beak. From there, a second pitch has to climb a steep ridge right of the ridge for 5 meters and then 20 meters from the downridge arrive to the second vertical portion that we pass with abseiling. Here is placed the third series belay with two anchors and chain. The abseil is just 30 meters and 60m rope reaches marginally. From here onwards, the ridge is smoother but within 40 meters there is a third vertical section required the fourth rapel (about 20m). This belay is not placed at the moment but can be belay by placing a piton or detour from descending lower to the north side quite low. The aim is to equip this point with belay in the future.
Required equipment for this truly beautiful crossing are two 60m ropes (can be experienced by one if the rapel in Fourka do in two consecutive rapels or descending part of the ridge), several sligs, some pitons for every possibility of escaping from the ridge.
This route aims to attract many climbers from Greece and abroad, as it contains useful technical passages with beautiful views to the north and south. The equipment of the belay is sponsored by Hotel Kroupi in Elati, Trikala (http://www.kroupi.gr). We also thank the Association of Mountaineering and Ski of Trikala (SOXT) for the disposal of drill. Of course I want to thank the team for their invaluable help and support this work, Giorgos Margaritis, Leonidas Niavis and Thanasis Economou.
For more information and details about the trip contact Nikolas Kroupis in Hotel Kroupi, Elati, Trikala.
Hotel Kroupi
The first abseil in Fourka
The slopes of the first rapel at Fourka pass just on the ridge

 The first rapel in Ornio
The vertical rock at Ornio southwest ridge need a rapel exact 30 meters

 George the second rapel in Ornio
At the second rapel in Ornio

 The ridge from Ornio towards to Avgo
The ridge from Ornio towards to Avgo